After drafting the basic sloper set, you can draft many different patterns which are based on it. One of the patterns is called, The Torso Foundation. This pattern instead of stopping at the waist, continues to contour the hip curve and has four contour darts down the front and the back of the garment and shoulder darts that connect across the shoulders.
My process in creating these patterns started with tracing the basic sloper front and back and then adjusting the pattern in specific ways to create a different pattern. For the torso foundation, you must also include the measurement for the hip arc, adding it to the end of the waist. The four contour darts are made by the slash and spread method, cutting from the center of the shoulder almost to the bust (creating a hinge) and from one dart leg almost to the bust. After you repeat this process for the back, you must also adjust the back shoulder dart to connect with the newly made front shoulder dart.
Be sure to add any notches, proper seam allowance and the grainline as well as other information such as how many to cut, your name and the date.
Constructing the Torso Foundation
The sequence for sewing the Torso Foundation is as follows:
- Prepare the fabric for patterns to be cut from it by laying out pieces for the appropriate amount and press it
- Pin, iron, baste and then sew for perfect darts
- Sew facings and torso backs and fronts at the shoulders
*Always press after every seam is made*
- Lay facing pieces and torso pieces right sides together and stitch around their armscyes
- Clip to, not through threads
- Understitch around armscyes
- Stitch around the neck hole and then clip and understitch
My finished garment is shown below and is left open in the back to be pinned on the dress form at 1" extension.
In the mid evaluation, I was able to identify a few mistakes I had made and a few adjustments to remedy them. I found that I didn't like the way the side seams curved because they didn't contour the waist properly so I dropped the curve slightly. I also needed to lower some of my dart points that were too high.
One alternative to the approach I took to drafting my patterns, is to not add seam allowance to my pattern and instead adding it on my fabric with a pencil. This is only useful if you are still in the process of fitting your garment and a finished pattern should include seam allowance.
The effort I spent on this project was comprised of many hours and critical thinking however, in hindsight I could have possibly tried to be more vigilant in every step of the way.
Lastly, the patterns and garment is evaluated by peers. This process is imperative to having a more informed perspective about your project.
This course has provided me with a skill set that is sought after in much of the garment industry. Being able to add pattern drafting as a skill to my resume is invaluable and gives me a career advantage in my industry.
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